Expert Beauty Tips

Eyeliner Masterclass - Your how-to guide to perfect eyeliner every time

It’s all about Eyeliner this season, with graphic, edgy lines emphasising the eye area as shown on the runways. Eyeliner, edgy or not, is a perennial favourite and something frequently asked about how to apply.

This is a mini masterclass on choosing, using and loving eyeliner

Choosing eyeliner

Eyeliner goes as far back as the Ancient Egyptians who drew dark lines around their eyes with kohl. Now we have such a variety to choose from - where to start?!

Black liquid liner gives the most precise, graphic and matt effect. This type of formulationcan give kittenish flicks or gothic wings depending on how you use it. For a softer, but still defined, look you can choose a taupe or dark brown shade of liquid liner.

Gel liner is a relatively new formulation type, and comes in a small pot. Keep the lid on the pot tightly as these can dry out. Gel eyeliner is more forgiving if you want a slightly softer look, or a line that can be smudged.

Eye pencils and kohls or kajals are waxier stick formulations that are good for tightlining (where you apply liner in between your lashes for an emphasised eye look). We like this one from Laura Mercier.

Once you have chosen your eyeliner, think about the brush you need. Shu Uemera No 2r is a great option for liquid or gel eyeliner, as you want a ‘bendy’ brush that is fine, but without very long hairs as they can splay making it difficult to control the line.

Using eyeliner

The most important tip when applying eyeliner is to start with the eye that is hardest to get right. If you start with the easiest eye, it will be more difficult to get the look symmetrical.

Gently pull the skin taut on the eye you are working on, and start from the inside corner and work outwards. Try it both ways though, outer corner to inner might work better for you. If you are applying on someone else, tilt their head up then ask them to look down. Ask them to look towards their ear when you are applying to their inner eye corner as it will help smooth the skin in that area.

Try to complete the line in one sweep for the most elegant look; if you try to dot or stop that’s when the line starts looking disjointed.

In terms of where to put your flick, look at the waterline under your eye (where your lower lash line is) then imagine it continues upwards on the outer edge. This is where your flick will look most natural.

If you don’t have a lot of eye space or have hooded eyes, try a half wing, which goes from the middle of your eyelid outwards to a gentle flick, a really flattering look.

To help you apply a liquid liner you could try one with a nib like a marker pen. Surrat Auto-Graphique in Chat Noir is great as it gives a smooth line, and stays true if you use it over eye colour.

Tips to help you love eyeliner

A perfect flick takes practice, practice, practice. Try it when you aren’t hurried, and have good light in a large mirror.

If you make a mistake, don’t panic. Use a fine pointed cotton bud and apply a tiny dot of liquid concealer (such as my ReCover Correct & Conceal Red) to the end. Roll gently in one swipe over the mistake and it should come away easily. Don’t scrub or rub. If it has gone really wrong, then just wipe it off and start again.

If you are really struggling, I recently saw this Eyeliner Stencil and thought it looked great for a fast fix!